Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Amsterdam- for the artist in you!

I always wanted to see Amsterdam- the Dutch capital, famous for many reasons. Be it the tag of  a party haven,or the beauty of water canals driven into the roadways. My brother and I, set off to explore the artistic side of Amsterdam, on one rainy day in early November.

We arrived at the Van Gogh museum in the center of Amsterdam, only to be greeted by crowds of people standing in the lashing rain, waiting to go in!. Sheer madness! you would say!. But thats Van Gogh for you!. We were lucky to go in, bypassing the long queues (and a sizable fee!), thanks to Shell (my brother's employer- also a major sponsor for the museum).

It is a well planned museum set over 3 floors and appropriately spaced out. Starting with his early days, we travel up to his works and then a few works of his contemporaries. What strikes you about a Van Gogh painting, as opposed to the intricate art works that decorate the walls of other museums like the Louvre, is the simplicity of his subjects and objects. From sunflowers to red cabbages and prawns, to the scene of his bedroom in Arles (south of France), and even the unassuming faces of the "potato-eaters", you are visualizing everyday life in those times, and not a majestic portrait of a duke and his extended family. His works were initially dark and gloomy, but over time he took to more bright and appealing colors. His penchant for self portraits, comes across as strange initially, but as we later understand, he had no money to buy a subject to sit for him!; so he often painted himself, while looking at a mirror, each time working on new technique and color!.

Sunflowers- a Van Gogh masterpiece



Enriched and happy after my first real artistic encounter, I picked up five large Van Gogh painting postcards of my choice to later frame in my living room!.

Post lunch, we drove through the busy thoroughfares (scores of cyclists!) of Amsterdam to see the house of Anne Frank. Set on the banks of a canal, it s a surprisingly congested house, now modified somewhat to host a museum. Again we were greeted by spiraling queues!. But this time I was contend to just take in the view from outside, sitting on the banks of the canal.

Like most places, I have seen in Europe, I would always love to come back again to Amsterdam!. Next time- Rijksmuseum here I come !

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Three cities, three days

We made a whirlwind car trip across Germany and the Czech Republic on a long weekend in late October. It started with a 6 hour drive to Berlin. After a restful sleep at night and a hearty breakfast in the morning, we embarked on exploring Berlin- 3 adults and 1 toddler.

We bought a group ticket for a day (just 16 euros!) at the nearest S-bahn. It was the easiest  and cheapest way to get around. Although I would have loved to try out an hop-on-hop-off or some other sight-seeing bus option,  I have been advised against this by many a traveler!. So, using a tourist map and public transport, we went around exploring Berlin.

Our first stop was Brandenburg Tor (Gate). It was just above the subway station. It is a beautiful 12 pillared monument, that has come to be the hallmark of Berlin. Atop the gate is a beautiful "Quadriga" or a 4 horse drawn chariot driven by the Roman goddess of victory- Victoria. The gate was built in the 1780s, as a symbol of peace, but has witnessed anything but that!.

The gate is walking distance from the German parliament- Reichstag. We walked the short distance to the Parliament house. The Reichstag is an imposing building in the midst of manicured lawns, with the words "Dem Deutschen Volke" proudly engraved on the front. There is a wonderful glass dome atop the parliament, which supposedly offers a bird's eye view of Berlin.

From the parliament, we headed back towards the Holocaust memorial, also within walking distance. On the way we passed a simple monument dedicated to the memory of the Sinti and Roma ("Gypsies") who were also killed in large numbers in the genocide. It was a deep black pit with constantly flowing water, situated in a clearing of  trees in the vicinity of the Reichstag. In that quaint, unassuming setting, one does get a feeling of sadness for the meaningless of of lives. There is a simple poem etched on the walls of the pond..
"Sucken in face
Extingushed eyes
Cold lips
Silence
A torn heart
without breath
without words
no tears"
Simple words that describe great emotion!.

The Holocaust memorial was no less poignant. The ground work of grey colored rectangle stone in different sizes doesn't strike a chord initially. But when one enters the underground museum, you are flooded with the sheer magnanimity of the criminal genocide. The stories of families torn apart are truly heart rendering. This place was seriously eye-opening. Every war must have a similar story.

It was nearly lunch time and in vain we searched for the elusive "Hitler's bunker"- the place where he supposedly committed suicide. But after a brief search, we were told that the place had been detonated and no longer existed!. It was now a underground parking lot for an apartment!.

Famished we sunk into the welcoming chairs of a Italian pizzeria for a meal of pizza and pasta. The wonderful thing about Berlin, was the food(international), the people (who converse with you in English) and the historical monuments.

Post lunch, we walked towards the Pergamon museum. We underestimated the distance from the Holocaust memorial, and had to walk quite a bit!. The museum is situated on a museum island (similar to Munich). The beautiful Berlin cathedral is situated close by and was a wonderful background for some memorable photographs.

Pergamon was worthy of the effort and expense to see it!. It had a superb collection, the most memorable were the frieze of the Pergamon altar and the Ishtar Gate of ancient Babylon. But my toddler was in no way awed by Pergamon and it was difficult to keep him out of trouble!.

Nearly dusk, we headed to the nearest subway. Our last stop for the day was the Berlin Wall memorial. Reaching the site after dark, we were disappointed to find the museum attached, had very little in terms of interactive media. The wall (or the last remaining remnant) was right outside the museum. Scribbled with graffiti, it wasn't much of a sight.

The next day, we headed towards Dresden by car. Starting out late(nearly afternoon), we couldn't hope to see much of Dresden. We spent some time in the military museum of Dresden. It was a huge place, with lots of information, but not for a tourist in a hurry!. The city of Dresden has a terrible world war history, being a major military base of the German army. It was bombed by allied forces, where more than 90% of the city was destroyed!. The city has been reconstructed since. Driving through the city at dusk, it is little wonder that this hidden gem of Germany, was once called the "Florence-on-the-Elbe"!.



A few hours of drive from Dresden, is Prague or Praha. Our last stop for the trip, we arrived tired and weary, late into the evening. We checked into a small hotel in the old town district, which had got rave reviews on Trip advisor, and it was not disappointing!. It was a refurbished mansion, now a star hotel, which was decorated with all kinds of stuff. It was warm and cozy. The view from the hotel window was awesome!- the beautiful Prague castle light up with bright lights and a host of other historical monuments!. It was like living in a medieval land of castles and mansions.

We had a scrumptious dinner, not far from the hotel. Food in Prague, like Berlin, was terrific on taste!. Walking through the narrow alleys of Prague's old town, I was struck by how wonderfully architecture had been preserved down the ages.

The next day morning, we embarked on yet another city tour. Prague is a city made for the tourist!. Everything, from the shops to the people to the food, is inviting the tourist and in fact screaming for attention!. Charles bridge is an iconic bridge built over the river Vltava and  was our first stop. There were scores of artists and musicians selling their wares. Its the sheer activity of the place that one finds most appealing. This time we climbed on a short two hour long bus tour with an audio guide, that showed us the landmarks of the city. It is the best way to see a lot of the city in a short span of time. We stopped for a brief time at the Prague castle, just in time to witness the change of guard. There was a beautiful cathedral inside the castle compound, that boasted of breath-taking stained glass paintings.

The most memorable vision of Prague was the famous astronomical clock, near which we settled down fro lunch. Every hour, it chimes and the twelve apostles of Christ can be seen, acknowledging the masses from their window above the clock!.


As I say "Tschuss" to Germany...

Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a wonderful stroke of luck. – Dalai Lama

Reading this saying today morning on one of my friend's Facebook status updates, made me reminisce about my last year in Germany. I have been very unlucky in more ways than I have been lucky, which is rather unusual for me. Usually there are always more good things to be thankful for, than bad memories while I leave a place. And I usually leave a city I have lived in, in good spirits. But this time, I don't feel the same.

Most of my time has been devoted to child care and living within the four walls of our apartment. Of course, They have been wonderful times- for the first time in my life I have taken out time and energy to spend with a child and that too at planning out meaningful activities, fun and learning time. But it does take a toll on you when there is no life beyond that!.

One of the best things about living here in Europe, was the traveling. Seeing new places always contributes to advancement. And some family trips were time well spent.

I always complain about the amount of time I have spent cooking, cleaning and doing household chores!. When the entire onus of the house management is on ones' shoulders, then even the last minutes before falling asleep, while lying in bed, are full of thoughts, planning out the next meal or essentials for the next day!.

I had an old school friend over at my place for lunch last weekend, who has lived in Germany for 5 years and plans to continue doing so. Of course, it helps that he is single and has no kids!. While he agreed with me that it is not easy to have a social life here, he did suggest that having hobbies helps!. Yes, thats a great idea to get started on friends and you need them here in this cold and grey country!. The ordinary guy on the street in Germany is very polite,  but not really friendly!. They don't make an effort to know more about you or your culture. And for some of them, my inability to speak Deustche is a put-off!. Yes. hobbies are a good way to start, but there was no time for one in all those months of child-care, cooking and cleaning!.

My worst experience has been while I had volunteered to do a clinical
observorship at a local hospital. One would assume that in a professional clinical set-up, I could get around with my knowledge of English!. I mean, thats why, they have an exception of the compulsory- knowledge- of-Deustche rule, for highly skilled professionals!. But, sadly, this was not the case. Not many Germans have mercy for the English speaker!- professional or otherwise!.

My greatest disappointment with Germany has been a sense of non- achievement in life beyond the four walls of my house. I was handicapped by my lack of knowledge of German. I was always tied down by the time cycles of my toddler. But perhaps,in the words of the Dalai Lama, maybe, its good that nothing happened for me here! or .. does that sound like sour grapes!. Time will tell!

As the sun sets on our  journey..

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Lantern fest in Germany

I was introduced to the "Lantern fest" by my son's kindergarten. Lantern fest or St Martin's day, is an official Catholic holiday and falls on November 11th, but is celebrated anytime in early winter.  It is celebrated in the memory of a saint who was known for his kindness and love for children.

A few days before the proposed lantern walk, all the mothers, were called for a short interactive session, little before noon. We were shown how to make our own lanterns, with glazed paper, strips of colored paper and cardboard rings. It was fun for the kids. It was the first time my toddler was introduced to a "cut-and paste" activity. So far, I have always been wary of giving him the scissors. I was surprised to see, a few kids (only slightly older) handling the scissors like an expert! .

On the day of the lantern walk, we were called to come at dusk to the kindergarten. After a short time of eating cake and drinking, we lined up with the kids, lanterns in their hands. We lit a small electric candle and placed it inside the lantern. The kindergarten teachers handed out sheet of songs that everyone sang out loudly. When it was dark, the kids walked around the street with the lanterns in their hands.

I believe in..

My photo
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than the ones you did.So, throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Let the trade winds in. Explore. Dream. Enjoy."